Mourning Millinery
Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of
black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face. The covering
of crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the
soft appearance desired. The trimming is of milliner's folds or flat
flowers made of the crepe.[98-1] The mourning veils used may have a
simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is
much the handsomer finish.
More
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French Lining
This lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the inside of the hat at the headsize ... Geraniums
These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon. Use the same method as in making violets, except that yellow stamens should always be added. ... Grapes
These are made the same as cherries, except a cluster would have several sizes. They are beautiful made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds and arranging them on a hat to ... Halo Hat Brims
Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective the material should be sheer. Malines, nets, georgette crepe, or chiffon are all used to good effect in making this style of hat. Good-looking halo brims have been made from old georgette w... Hat Frames Of Fabric
Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step of the way. The frame is the firs... Hat Linings
A hat lining should receive the same careful consideration and workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A well-fitted lining, whether of somber or g... Headsize Wire
TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat is to rest and add two inches to this... Headsize Wire For Halo Brim
This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First measure, then cut, join ends, and shape as for any hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material, having the joining at the back. The front and the back of the brim, if of equal width, will be somewhat na... Headsize Wire For Wire Frame
A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike, remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsiz... Lace
Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is desired. ... Lace
Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. Press gently in the hands--do not rub. Press the water out after having rinsed the lace well in warm water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet, being careful to stretch and pin each scallop i... Light Straw Hats
Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or gasoline. If the hat is in need of bleaching, sulphur and water may be used, or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use according to printed directions. Two or three... Malines
Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron. Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board. ... Milliner's Fold
Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof threads parallel. Any other bias is c... Morning Glories
Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used. These dimensions are for a small blo... Mourning Millinery
Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face. The covering of crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the soft appearance desired. The trimming i... Neteen Or Fly Net
A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being much softer than when made with buckr... New Brims For Old Crowns
If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old, half-worn waist will do nicely, using ... No 1 Pattern For The Center
This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem them down. Gather along one edge a... No 2 Pattern For The Center
This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. Cut th... Old Buckram Frames
When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A break in buckram is difficult to remo... Orchid
This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter i... Panama Hats
It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or crepe de chine, finished off at the... Pattern For Brim
Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased. A round brim will not be of equal width all arou... Pattern For Brim
Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply. Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease. This is to determine the position of ... Pattern For Brim
Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or fit quite close. In either case the method is the same. Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on ... Pattern For Hat With Rolled Or Close-fitting Brim
The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge, the slashes lapped over and pinned. If... Pattern For Slanting Side Crown
Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of bottom, then lap slashes at top a litt... Plain Lining
This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as the crown height plus two and one-half inches. Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the ... Pleatings
A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be made from paper or stiff muslin for prac...