Milliner's Fold

Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a

bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This

must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof

threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the

wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side

toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting

read must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave

the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges

meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter

of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place

and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and

take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a

short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hide the

stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and

continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to

permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when

finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it.

Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a

French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the

edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat

to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and

is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crepe.