Headsize Wire

TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this

measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation

wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat

is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the

ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which

goes up into the headsize.[7-1]



As our headsize measu e is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame

wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just

mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.[7-2]

Wire always laps one inch--no more, no less.



TO SHAPE--With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated

to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part

of the head.



TO LOCATE HEADSIZE ON PATTERN--Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on

pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front

of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark

all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper

one-half inch inside this mark.



TO CUT BUCKRAM BRIM--Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut

the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of

center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press

the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp

bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily

repaired.



TO SEW HEADSIZE WIRE TO BRIM--First note the relation of headsize wire

to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half

inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance

of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire,

the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on

each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on

smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each

side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring

needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take

stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right

side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back

to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten

thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in

order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram

inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes

small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be

tried on and changes made if necessary.