Old Buckram Frames

When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove

all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of

cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A

break in buckram is difficult to remove; however, if new material is not

available, much may be done with the old. Do not remove the headsize

wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed.

/> If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now is the time to

change it. If the general shape of the brim is to be changed, remove the

edge wire and trim to the required width. If it is to droop or roll,

slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap

one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash in several places if

necessary. Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with

a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat.

If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash and add V-shaped

pieces of buckram. If the headsize is entirely too large, this may be

remedied by dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize wire and

the edge wire, cutting through from front to back. Lap and sew; make the

headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer

edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to

the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it

is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the

crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base,

or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a

fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old

covering, but it can sometimes be done.