Pleatings
A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made,
it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its
attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be
made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a
thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating
requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a
half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and
one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread.
Press slightly on the wrong side before using.
More
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Malines
Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron. Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board. ... Milliner's Fold
Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof threads parallel. Any other bias is c... Morning Glories
Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used. These dimensions are for a small blo... Mourning Millinery
Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face. The covering of crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the soft appearance desired. The trimming i... Neteen Or Fly Net
A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being much softer than when made with buckr... New Brims For Old Crowns
If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette--an old, half-worn waist will do nicely, using ... No 1 Pattern For The Center
This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem them down. Gather along one edge a... No 2 Pattern For The Center
This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. Cut th... Old Buckram Frames
When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A break in buckram is difficult to remo... Orchid
This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter i... Panama Hats
It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or crepe de chine, finished off at the... Pattern For Brim
Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased. A round brim will not be of equal width all arou... Pattern For Brim
Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply. Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease. This is to determine the position of ... Pattern For Brim
Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or fit quite close. In either case the method is the same. Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on ... Pattern For Hat With Rolled Or Close-fitting Brim
The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge, the slashes lapped over and pinned. If... Pattern For Slanting Side Crown
Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of bottom, then lap slashes at top a litt... Plain Lining
This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as the crown height plus two and one-half inches. Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the back of the ... Pleatings
A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be made from paper or stiff muslin for prac... Plums
These may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias, two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather one end one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Pull the ... Poinsettias
The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining, the poinsettia making a beautiful ornament. While a bright red is extremely lovely, a black poinsettia is equally effective. The petals should be made of velvet and lined with the same color in... Pompons
Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be cut li... Poppies
Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide. Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long. This leaves one piece six inches long. This will make five petals. Cut the ends round on the five and one-half i... Quills
Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife on... Radiating
This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations given will suffice. After these two examples a... Raisins
These may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored material one-eighth of an inch from the edge, but used without filling with cotton. Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. Alw... Renovation Of Hat Coverings And Linings
To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust. With the wrong side down, hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it is passed back and forth over the steam.... Ribbon
A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire ribbons. ... Ribbon Covering
If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid. An inch-wide ribbon is easily handled. ... Ribbon Rose
To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fo... Ribbon Rosettes
There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many ... Ribbons
If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water, using a brush. Do not rub or wring. Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around a bottle and leave to dry. Do not press until after twenty-four hours, if cleaned in gasoline. To produce e... Right Sidewrong Side
This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch at finish, but do not turn ends under. ... Rosettes From Old Plumes
An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers together. This should be sewed onto a fine ... Sailor Hat Frame
For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim, three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inc...