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Headsize Wire

TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this
measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation
wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat
is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the
ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which
goes up into the headsize.[7-1]

As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame
wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just
mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.[7-2]
Wire always laps one inch--no more, no less.

TO SHAPE--With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated
to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part
of the head.

TO LOCATE HEADSIZE ON PATTERN--Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on
pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front
of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark
all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper
one-half inch inside this mark.

TO CUT BUCKRAM BRIM--Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut
the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of
center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press
the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp
bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily

TO SEW HEADSIZE WIRE TO BRIM--First note the relation of headsize wire
to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half
inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance
of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire,
the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on
each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on
smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each
side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring
needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take
stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right
side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back
to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten
thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in
order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram
inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes
small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be
tried on and changes made if necessary.

Next: Edge Wire

Previous: Pattern For Brim

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