To Slipstitch Seam
Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle
through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along
in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the
edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the
fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly
opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from
inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for
something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits
perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the
outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you
will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at
the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down
with an overcasting stitch.
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To Cut Wire
Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are injured and the covering loosened at the ... To Face Under Side Of Brim
Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around edge, leaving a little less than one-fourth inch to turn under. Facings are usually finished at the edge wit... To Fasten Two Pieces Of Brace Wire Without The Use Of Tie Wire
Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the end straight backward, close to and par... To Finish The Base Of The Crown
The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the brim. ... To Freshen Crepe For Mourning Millinery
Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot iron passed over it without touc... To Glue Velvet To The Brim
When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric thinner than velvet, or on any frame o... To Join Edge Wire
Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut the end off close and press the cut e... To Join The Seam In The Back
Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a strip of crinoline to smooth it up. ... To Make A Turban Frame Of Neteen Or Crinoline
Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which is usually more becoming. Join the ... To Make Pattern For Brim
Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim droop, slash the pattern from the edge t... To Make Wire Frame For Hat Having Flat Brim And Square Crown
Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more satisfactory first to make a paper... To Open Coil Of Wire
Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils separate. ... To Piece Braid
Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart for several inches and the strands ... To Pin In Place On The Frame
Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back is reached. Curve the second row grad... To Put A Straw Hat Into Shape
If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A rounded crown can be made flat on top,... To Sew
Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the thread is not pulled too tight. Tak... To Sew Crown On Brim
The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wi... To Sew Edge Wire On Neteen
It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken in handling neteen to preserve t... To Sew Velvet Edge To Brim
This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side, being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch ... To Slipstitch Seam
Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one... To Straighten Wire
Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion. A piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become tender. Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten it, as it will be impossible to remove... To Tie Wire
Ends of brace wire parallel. Right angles tied diagonally. Brace wire tied without use of tie wire. Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time will be saved and necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire, until a str... To Wire Turban Flare
Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, stretching the fabric to fit if a f... Transparent Hats
If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or a beautiful frame may be made for thin materia... True Lovers' Knot
This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head. The ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold ribbon. ... Violets
No flower is more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome violets make a most acceptable gift at any time. Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is used. Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end, tie anoth... When Straw Is To Be Re-sewed
Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and press carefully. Some straw will not stand dampening, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side. ... Wild Rose Of Silk
The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the first rose given. This same pattern is used for many different flowers--the wild rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage. For the wild rose use the size having the tw... Willow Plate
A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without blocking. Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs. WIRE comes in black, white, silver, and ... Wings
Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline or a hair net of the same color. Wings may be covered with a coat of shellac which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look. ... Wired Ribbon Bows
Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin, velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two colors are rather effectively used in this w... Wired Rose
This rose, when carefully made, is most beautiful and sells for an exorbitant price. To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or ... Working Measurements Needed
Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern. ...