To Open Coil Of Wire
Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen
gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils
separate.
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To Cut Side Crown From Buckram
Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine ba... To Cut Wire
Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are injured and the covering loosened at the ... To Face Under Side Of Brim
Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around edge, leaving a little less than one-fourth inch to turn under. Facings are usually finished at the edge wit... To Fasten Two Pieces Of Brace Wire Without The Use Of Tie Wire
Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the end straight backward, close to and par... To Finish The Base Of The Crown
The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the brim. ... To Freshen Crepe For Mourning Millinery
Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot iron passed over it without touc... To Glue Velvet To The Brim
When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric thinner than velvet, or on any frame o... To Join Edge Wire
Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut the end off close and press the cut e... To Join The Seam In The Back
Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a strip of crinoline to smooth it up. ... To Make A Turban Frame Of Neteen Or Crinoline
Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which is usually more becoming. Join the ... To Make Pattern For Brim
Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim droop, slash the pattern from the edge t... To Make Wire Frame For Hat Having Flat Brim And Square Crown
Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more satisfactory first to make a paper... To Open Coil Of Wire
Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils separate. ... To Piece Braid
Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart for several inches and the strands ... To Pin In Place On The Frame
Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back is reached. Curve the second row grad... To Put A Straw Hat Into Shape
If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A rounded crown can be made flat on top,... To Sew
Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the thread is not pulled too tight. Tak... To Sew Crown On Brim
The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wi... To Sew Edge Wire On Neteen
It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken in handling neteen to preserve t... To Sew Velvet Edge To Brim
This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side, being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch ... To Slipstitch Seam
Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one... To Straighten Wire
Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with a sweeping motion. A piece of cloth or paper may be held in the hand if the fingers become tender. Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting to straighten it, as it will be impossible to remove... To Tie Wire
Ends of brace wire parallel. Right angles tied diagonally. Brace wire tied without use of tie wire. Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time will be saved and necessary experience gained by tying a few short pieces of wire, until a str... To Wire Turban Flare
Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, stretching the fabric to fit if a f...