Double Or Triple Box-pleating
This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other.
Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same
number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the
box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This
pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after
having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed.
The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and
it is then known as rose pleating.
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Brims Covered With Two Kinds Of Fabric
A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics, which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the same time have much charm. For instan... Buckram
Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a summer buckram, lighter in weight... Cable
Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame design, if it is to be covered with sheer... Cape Net
A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft frames. Not as pliable as neteen. ... Cherries
These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple--satin or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They should also be filled until they a... Circles Or Hoops
Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same size. Keep all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will conform to the shape of the crown and w... Cleaning Curling And Tinting Feathers
To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air till dry. A very light-colored or w... Collar Of Brim
Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the top of these wires, using the same me... Covering Turbans
Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone or in combination with fabric. Ve... Covering Wire Frames With Maline Net Or Georgette
Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline, net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered. If maline is used, it should be pleated or gat... Crinoline
Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin, open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the fabric frame. ... Crown
Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming frayed it is better to have a generous all... Crown For Halo Brim
This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the headsize wire. The covering for the... Crown Tips
The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given. SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim, which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline... Crowns
If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill has been acquired by the student of millinery... Daisies
Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch ribbon, using as many petals as desired. Cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths. Tie a knot in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece of buckram. If two rows of petals are used, the seco... Double Or Triple Box-pleating
This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the box pleat the exact width desired. Bas... Edge Of Brim Facing When Finished Without Wire
A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place all the way around before beginni... Edge Wire
This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire to conform to shape of brim. Ne... Edge Wire
Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always keeping the tied ends on the back c... Equipment
Thimble Thread Needles Tape-measure Pins Tailor's chalk or pencil Milliner's pliers or wire cutters Scissors, large and small Paper for patterns Thimble--good quality Thread--Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Co... Equipment
Brace wire or frame wire Tie wire Sprung wire Pliers ... Facings
A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the brim. In this case there could be a strip ... Felt And Beaver Hats
When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove the sandpaper and substitute a p... Flat Pasted Blossom
A conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from the pattern for the wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size required) from velvet, and five the same size from silk or satin. Lay the velvet petals wrong side up an... Flowers
MATERIAL REQUIRED: Tie wire, green Gum tissue, brown and green Cotton batting Milliner's glue Yellow stamens Dark green tissue paper Flowers may be made from almost any fabric--satin, velvet, georgette, maline, ribbon, soft leat... Flowers
If flowers are faded, they may be touched up with water-color. If they are pink, rouge may be used effectively. If the edges are much frayed, trim them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be dipped in hot paraffine to restore their gloss, or ... Foliage
The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the leaves from green satin or velvet, or color them green with water-color if a light-colored material must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape of rose leaves (it will require two pieces for e... Foundations Of Buckram
The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the center. Lap a small amount and sew. Thr... Frame Or Brace Wire
Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric hat frames. ... Frames Of Neteen And Crinoline
Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double to secure the best results. Cut one thicknes... French Lining
This lining is made from an oval piece of silk which corresponds to the crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the inside of the hat at the headsize ...