To Cover With Braid
Great care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw
braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied,
as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames.
The stitch used for sewing braid is always the same--a very short stitch
on the right side, and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong
side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, o
stitches may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw
braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame
except when a very soft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and
shaped over a wire or buckram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be
removed from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is coarse, it may
be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with
crinoline or mull. (See illustration.)
Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a fabric is used on top.
In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches
may be taken through the brim, which the fabric on top will cover.
More
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Sailor Hat Frame
For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim, three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inc... Shaped Brim Foundation
The simplest shaped brim is the mushroom style. ... Sheer Materials
In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The lining should be fitted and sewed on... Small Wound Rose Of Fabric
Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches long. Fold lengthwise through the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one end, and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges. Draw the thread up to one inch and roll,... Sprung
An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge wire on wire frames. ... Square Crown
A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded, with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and one-half inches smaller at the top... Square Crown For Wire Frame
Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for finishing. Cut and join a small circle ... Sticks For Brim
Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the pencil, allowing the ends to extend a... Straw Shapes
BRIM--Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems necessary to use an edge wire, this ... Sweet Peas
Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one about one and one-half inches and two one inch, then a small one for the center, or a few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange the petals in a natural-looking blossom. ... Tailored Bow
This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides alike, although it may be made from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is made from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of buckram for a foundation to sew the ribbon on. This shoul... Tailored Lining
This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be easily made into one of these linin... Tie
Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black, white, and green. ... To Color Wire Frames
Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap dyes may be used. If these are not avai... To Cover A Close-fitting Or Rolled Brim
Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge. Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the material out smoothly toward the left... To Cover A Crown With Braid
Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread (which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until the center of the crown tip is reached,... To Cover A Mushroom-shaped Brim
If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always pulling with the thread of the material,... To Cover Brim
Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side). Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely... To Cover Crown Top
To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in place, and sew with stab stitch over line of gath... To Cover Narrow Brim Sailor Without An Edge Seam
This method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow, and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet ... To Cover Round Crown
Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of m... To Cover Side Crown
Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of material with warp thread. (Warp t... To Cover With Braid
Great care and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied, as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames. The stitch used for sewing braid... To Cut Side Crown From Buckram
Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine ba... To Cut Wire
Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws of the pliers at the point where they cut and press straight down. Be sure to cut with the first attempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the pliers are injured and the covering loosened at the ... To Face Under Side Of Brim
Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around edge, leaving a little less than one-fourth inch to turn under. Facings are usually finished at the edge wit... To Fasten Two Pieces Of Brace Wire Without The Use Of Tie Wire
Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the end straight backward, close to and par... To Finish The Base Of The Crown
The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the brim. ... To Freshen Crepe For Mourning Millinery
Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot iron passed over it without touc... To Glue Velvet To The Brim
When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric thinner than velvet, or on any frame o... To Join Edge Wire
Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut the end off close and press the cut e... To Join The Seam In The Back
Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a strip of crinoline to smooth it up. ... To Make A Turban Frame Of Neteen Or Crinoline
Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which is usually more becoming. Join the ... To Make Pattern For Brim
Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim droop, slash the pattern from the edge t... To Make Wire Frame For Hat Having Flat Brim And Square Crown
Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more satisfactory first to make a paper... To Open Coil Of Wire
Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and allow it to loosen gradually in the hand; pass it over the arm and knock it until the coils separate. ... To Piece Braid
Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart for several inches and the strands ... To Pin In Place On The Frame
Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back is reached. Curve the second row grad... To Put A Straw Hat Into Shape
If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A rounded crown can be made flat on top,... To Sew
Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden if the thread is not pulled too tight. Tak... To Sew Crown On Brim
The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wi... To Sew Edge Wire On Neteen
It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken in handling neteen to preserve t... To Sew Velvet Edge To Brim
This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side, being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch ... To Slipstitch Seam
Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one...