Applied Hem On A Veil
For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long
enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each
corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a
rectangular veil.
Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running
stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this
strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place
mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within
one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew
these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the
result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned
and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down
toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the
edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch
the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If
this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent
upon it.
The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any
becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then
arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any
desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning
millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to
adhere to the custom will find the style little changed.
More
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A Rolling Brim
Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires will be needed to fill the space. T... A Shaped Wire Frame Made In One Piece
The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to make a pattern for the crown, which m... A Shirred Crown Of Fabric
There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a circular piece of material, having a di... American Beauty Rose
This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a true bias. Begin the rose by cutting three pet... Apples
The material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size desired and from any material. The edge should be turned in one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over a piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of w... Applied Hem On A Veil
For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a rectangular veil. Fold this strip lengthwi... Base Wire
Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch. Make this the same shape as the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over the headsize wire on the brim for which the crown is... Base Wire For Crown
Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize wire on the brim. Place this circ... Bias Fabric
If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the material should be cut in strips two and one-half inches wide, on a true bias, and joined in one long strip. Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges together a little less than one-qu... Blocking Over Wire Frames
If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped as desired. Old or new buckram, n... Blossoms Of Maline Or Net
These may be made by using the same pattern as for the American Beauty rose, selecting the size required. (See illustration.) Lay a strip of tie wire inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved edge and draw down tight. This brings the two e... Both Sides Of Brim Covered With Braid
Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim both on the top and the bottom. These edges may be brought together with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a ... Bows
For the inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times. Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for ... Bows Of Maline
Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crow... Box Pleating
This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be one inch across. Baste with silk thread at... Brim
We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern. Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be apart should be marked on the edge wire. These measurements are taken from the pattern. Finish the edge... Brim And Crown Made From Small Pieces Of Silk And Braid
A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire foundation which has been made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not to attach the braid to the frame; slip the needle over the... Brims Covered With Two Kinds Of Fabric
A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics, which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the same time have much charm. For instan... Buckram
Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a summer buckram, lighter in weight... Cable
Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame design, if it is to be covered with sheer... Cape Net
A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft frames. Not as pliable as neteen. ... Cherries
These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple--satin or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They should also be filled until they a... Circles Or Hoops
Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same size. Keep all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will conform to the shape of the crown and w... Cleaning Curling And Tinting Feathers
To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air till dry. A very light-colored or w... Collar Of Brim
Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the top of these wires, using the same me... Covering Turbans
Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone or in combination with fabric. Ve... Covering Wire Frames With Maline Net Or Georgette
Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline, net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered. If maline is used, it should be pleated or gat... Crinoline
Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin, open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the fabric frame. ... Crown
Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming frayed it is better to have a generous all... Crown For Halo Brim
This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the headsize wire. The covering for the... Crown Tips
The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given. SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim, which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline...